"Fabric Piecing Instructions"

Expert hints and tips for perfect patchwork using
hand piecing and maching piecing methods.

Traditional "patchwork" or "fabric piecing" is without a doubt my
favourite technique. Working with
fabric color and shapes to create
"eye-catching" patterns and designs
is so exciting. An added bonus being, that piecing is relatively quick, compared with applique or stitchery.

So, in no time at all you have a completed quilt top. Especially if
you abide by the quilter's creed:
"patchwork forever, housework whenever"!

This lesson will cover the "basics" of piecing squares. A basic four patch block will be demonstrated. More complex piecing will be covered in future lessons.

A downside to machine piecing is of course, the cost of a machine. However, "hand" piecing is an option if you do not have access to a sewing machine. While the main focus of this lesson will be on machine piecing, the same result can be achieved with the hand pieced method.

MACHINE PREPARATION

• Thread your machine with a neutral-colored cotton thread. Cream or grey work well for most fabric colors.
• Change your presser foot to the quarter inch foot.
• Set stitch length at 2 or 2½.
• Set the needle position to finish down, if you have this feature.

GOLDEN RULES

• The standard seam width or "allowance" in patchwork is ¼ inch. Always check that the seam allowance has been included before cutting your fabric. Be aware that you may need to add the seam allowance if it has not been included in the dimensions given. This means you actually need to add to the length and width of the finished block size.

You need to allow ¼ inch for the seams on all both the left and right,
"top and bottom". Each side of the fabric will be incorporated in a seam at some point in your construction.

Most modern machines these days generally come with a "quarter inch foot" but if not, you should be able to purchased the foot as an optional extra. I highly recommend you make the purchase if you don't currently have this particular foot.

Tip: If you are not able to purchase the ¼ inch foot attachment, you can still achieve "accurate results" by placing a strip of masking tape on the throat plate, exactly ¼ inch to the left of the needle position.

Alternatively, you can "draw" the ¼ inch seam line with a sharp pencil as you would need to for hand piecing.

• Fabric must always be placed with "right sides together". All your basic piecing will follow this principle - always place the right sides of the fabric together before stitching. You may get the occasional piece of fabric like "homespun" that doesn't have an obvious "right" side. In this case, try to use the same side of the fabric as the right side for that project.
  
  

BASIC FOUR PATCH BLOCK

For this example, cut 4 x 5½ inch squares. The seam allowance has been included, therefore the finished size of each square will be 5 inches. And the finished block size will be 10 inches square.

Lay out the pieces as you would like the finished block to appear.

Place the squares on the right hand side directly on top of the pieces to the left.

Check that the right sides are together.

Line up the edge of the fabric with the "edge" of the ¼ inch foot.

Do not secure the seam by backstitching as it may pucker your fabric.

Sew along the edge or pencilled line, maintaining the ¼ inch seam allowance.

For hand piecing rule the ¼ inch sewing lines with a sharp pencil. Start the first stitch ¼ inch from the end and also finish the sewing line ¼ inch from the other end. This will allow you to manipulate the fabric when joining the other seams together. Begin and end each seam with a few backstitches to firmly hold your thread. Use a small running stitch or "backstitch". Do not pull your thread too tightly.

When piecing several pairs at the same time, sew them together, one after the other, without lifting the presser foot. This is called chain piecing.

After all pairs are stitched together, cut them apart. This saves both "time and thread" usage.

Open up the fabric and gently "finger press" the seam open on the right side of the fabric, while laying the seam at the back to one side.

This helps to avoid the fabric stretching when you iron the seam.

Now use an iron to "press" the seam flat.

Before pressing, place 2 pairs together and ensure that the seams are pressed in "opposite" directions.

Place one joined pair directly on top of the other joined piece. "Butt" the seams together. If your seams are pressed in opposite directions, the seam
will fit snuggly together. Pin the fabric together along the seam line, at "right angles" to the stitching line.

With hand piecing, again remember to start ¼ inch from the end. Start and end each line of stitching with a few "backstitches".

Again, line up the edge of the fabric with the edge of the ¼ inch foot.

Remember "not" to backstitch at either end of the stitch line.

Sew your seam by following the edge
of the fabric, taped or pencilled line, maintaining the ¼" seam allowance.

Carefully "remove" the pin as you come to the seam line.

(Oops, sorry about the blurry photo! Still relying on friends to help me out with a camera and didn't notice this before I returned it. By next month I should have my new, "new" camera replaced by the insurance company.)

Open up the fabric and gently "finger press" the seam open on the right side of the fabric. Remember to lay the seam at the back to one side.

Now use an iron to "press" the seam flat.

If you carefully "butted" your seams together, your seam will be perfectly joined without any fabric overlap.

Your join should look like well-laid tiles, without any grouting. This is known as having "perfect points".

Don't worry if you don't get it right the first time. It just takes a little practise!

The basic four-patch block is extremely "versatile" and can be used to create simple but very effective designs. You might like to whip one up as a gift.

I trust you've found these fabric piecing instructions both informative and useful.

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